There’s always a moment when you see it : A tidy electric guitar. Decent brand. “Hardly played.” Priced well below retail. You think: This is the one.
Sometimes it is. Sometimes it’s a fretboard shaped like a ski jump with electronics that crackle like a campfire.
I’ve bought and sold enough secondhand electric guitars in Australia to know this: Facebook Marketplace can be brilliant, but only if you slow down and know what you’re looking at. I also have done a piece on some of the best practice amps previously, so if you have one of them, by all means take it along with you to test it out.
This guide is focused purely on secondhand electric guitars in Australia, and it’s written for any players who want value without buying someone else’s problem.
Firstly, remove your emotion!
This is the golden rule of buying second hand. You have been looking for something for so long, that the right product and right price is almost too appealing. You are willing to travel for it, to pay what the seller wants, if there are any alarm bells ringing in your head, you are drowning them out with the future sound of you ripping chords on this piece of gear..
But remember, there is someone else who wants to get rid of this guitar and before you get too deep and name it before buying, below are some tips to help you get the best out of the transaction.
The Biggest Mistakes People Make buying second hand guitars
1. Believing the “RRP” Justifies the Price
Retail price is irrelevant once the guitar leaves the shop, much like a new car. There is no guarantee on the storage conditions or other factors that might influence the value of the guitar. A $1,399 electric bought two years ago is not worth $1,200 today just because the seller “barely played it” or that it’s “been in storage”
Check:
- Current retail pricing in Australia – look around for websites like Guitar Brothers, Mannys which often offer a good range to compare to.
- Comparable Marketplace ads
- “Sold” Listings on places like ebay
Second-hand electric guitars in good condition usually sit 25–40% below current new pricing, sometimes more for common models.
2. Not Inspecting the Neck Properly
The neck is the guitar.
Pickups can be changed. Tuners can be swapped. Electronics can be fixed.
A twisted neck? That’s expensive.
When inspecting:
- Sight down the neck from the headstock
- Look for twisting (one side higher than the other)
- Check relief — a slight forward bow is normal
- Look for severe back-bow
Also ask:
- Does the truss rod move freely?
- Has it ever been maxed out?
If the seller doesn’t know, test it carefully.
3. Confusing Poor Setup With Structural Issues
High action doesn’t automatically mean “bad guitar”.
It might just need a setup.
Ask yourself:
- Are the saddles adjustable? Check for rust or oxidisation are screws on saddles on the bridge.
- Is there room left on the truss rod? Has it been turned within an inch of it’s life to get relief?
- Is the nut cut reasonably well? Once in tune, do any of the strings sound ‘off’ in some positions. With a slight pull of strings near the nut do the strings pop out of the slot easily (good) or do they stick? Do nut slot depths and width look even per string?
A professional setup in Australia typically costs $100–$150. Build that into your mental budget and know you may have to fork it out if you start to fall out of tuning too regularly or are battling a poor action— but don’t use it to justify buying something fundamentally compromised.
4. “I have no idea what I have”
The seller has put it up on the website for someone else or it’s been in storage for a long time. This brings up a few questions about wtf has happened to this guitar over the years and where it actually came from. Check for rust on metal parts or swelling of the body (moisture is a bitch to guitars, especially those not stored properly), check electronics if you can plug it in. But this is one of the categories that I would walk away from if I started to get an inkling something wasn’t right.
Issues here:
- “It just needs some new strings” – OK for how long? Has the lack of tension caused any neck issues? Is the lack of strings a ploy to stop you from testing it out?
- “Missing a string” – this is my tell for ‘Seller has no idea about guitars/selling it for someone else/some strange provenance.’ Be careful with this one, as a missing string can mean a missing string or a host of issues that have never been checked due to being sold by a non player.
- Very high end guitar that “was my uncles” and looking for a quick sale – yeah, avoid this one. But if you must I would call around to a few local dealers and ask if anyone has reported a similar guitar missing or stolen. You don’t want to be holding someone elses contraband.
Faults to Look For in a Used Electric Guitar
This is your inspection checklist.
Fret Wear
Look at the first five frets under the B and G strings.
- Light flattening = normal
- Deep grooves = future fret dress or refret
A fret dress might cost $200–$300. A full refret can easily exceed $500. If the price doesn’t reflect that, walk away.
Fret Sprout
Run your hand along the neck edges. If you find that the frets are poking out too much, or unevenly on one side vs the other, you are going to want to address this. It might just need a little file and a condition of the fretboard, but a play test should give you some more indication.
Sharp fret ends are common in dry Australian climates, especially on cheaper instruments. Not a deal breaker.
Electronics
Plug it in. Every pickup. Every position.
Check for:
- Dead spots in the selector
- Volume dropouts
- Excessive hum
- Scratchy pots (often minor and fixable)
Intermittent signal issues can mean wiring faults. Not expensive — just annoying.
Neck Pocket & Headstock
Check:
- Cracks around the neck pocket
- Headstock repairs
- Stress fractures near the nut
Hairline finish cracks are common. Structural cracks, especially in high tension areas like the neck pocket and headstock, are not. If there’s a repaired headstock, the price should reflect it significantly.
Aftermarket Modifications
Upgrades don’t automatically increase value.
Seymour Duncans? Nice.
Poorly installed pickups with messy wiring? Not nice.
Unless you know the work is quality, assume mods don’t add resale value.
Realistic Price Ranges for second hand Electric Guitars in Australia (2026)
Here’s a rough guide for the current market.
Entry Level ($100–$350)
Common examples:
- Squier Bullet / Affinity
- Yamaha Pacifica 012
- Budget Artist Guitars models
These are beginner instruments. Don’t pay near-new pricing.
If a Squier Affinity is $429 new, it should not be $380 used.
Mid Range ($400–$900) — The Sweet Spot
This is where value lives.
You’ll commonly see:
- Fender Player Series
- Epiphone Les Paul Standard / Modern
- PRS SE Custom 24
- Yamaha Revstar
For intermediate players, this range is often better value than buying new entry-level gear.
Expect roughly 25–35% below new retail.
Premium ($1,000–$2,500)
You’ll see:
- Fender American Professional
- Gibson Studio / Tribute models
- Higher-end PRS SE or older Core models
Condition matters here. Original case, paperwork, and clean frets make a difference.
If you’re spending over $1,500, inspect carefully. At that price, you want near-excellent condition.
Negotiating Without Being “That Guy”
A fair offer is usually 10–15% below asking, depending on condition. If you have issues with the guitar, feel free to mention them but the bigger tip is be prepared to walk away. You don’t want to be compromising and taking on someone elses problems with a secondhand guitar that you already had issues with from the sale.
Should You Buy Sight Unseen?
For electrics, I strongly prefer in-person inspection.
Freight damage happens. Neck breaks happen.
If you must buy sight unseen:
- Ask for detailed photos
- Ask for a video demo
- Confirm truss rod function (this one isn’t massively important at lower prices as many people never touch the truss rod)
- Factor risk into price
If the deal looks too good, it probably is.
Final Thoughts: Don’t Rush
The biggest mistake isn’t missing a bargain. It’s buying in a rush, especially for a stock model that is available everywhere.
There will always be another Strat. Another Les Paul. Another PRS.
You’re not just buying specs. You’re buying neck feel. Weight. Balance. Resonance.
Take 15 extra minutes. Check properly. It’s cheaper than regret.
